Shoe and method of making the same



=Marc h 21, 1939. J. P. FREDERICKSE'N 2,151,020

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKiNG THE SAME Filed March 28, 1938 2 Sheets-Shea; 1

J. P. FREDERICKSEN MarchZl, 1-939.

' SHOE; AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 28, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 1m) (mm Patented Mar. 21, 1939 SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME James P. Fredericksen, Wollaston,

or to United Shoe Machinery Paterson, N. J., a corporation of Mass, assign- Corporation, New Jersey Application March 28, 1938, Serial No. 198,441

10 Claims.

'I his invention relates to shoes and to methods (of making shoes and is illustrated herein with particular reference to the construction of the heel portions of shoes.

, Objects of the invention are to provide a shoe having a relatively smooth heel seat portion for the reception of an outsole, said heel seat containmg no metallic fastenings, to provide an improved method of constructing such a shoe, and to provide an improved counterfor a shoe.

To the attainment of these objects'the inven- 1 'tion provides, in accordance with one aspect, an

improved method of making a shoe which comprises assembling on a last an insole, an upper and a flanged counter, the lining of the upper at the heel portion thereof and the flange of the counter being serrated or pinked by notches arranged in staggered relation to each other. The upper materials, including the counter, are worked into overlasted relationto the insole and are secured permanently in overlasted position by cement.

The serrations or notches on the lining and the 1 flange of the counter permit the counter and the outer layer of the upper as well as the lining to contact with the cement on the insole so that all threefelements of the assembled upper are held 7 in close engagement with the insole to produce a relatively smooth bottom on-the heel seat of the shoe."

l As hereinillustrated, the heel portion of the insole smooth. The upper materials may be secured in overlasted position while the cement betweenthe insole and upper materials sets by a string or 'similarmember attached in a suitable manner to the outer layer of the upper. After the upper materials have been secured in overlasted position, pressure may be applied to the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom to insure that the upper materials, including the outer layer, will lie as flat as possible against the surface of the insole. In this Way a relatively smooth heel seat is obtained on the shoe the use of metallic fastenings.

The invention also provides, in accordance with another aspect, an improved shoe having the bottom without 1 upper materials at its heel portion lasted flat against the insole, the lining of the upper at said portion and the flange of the counter being serrated or pinked by notches arranged in staggered relation to each other so that cement on the insole will reach the counter-and the outer layer .of the upper, as well as the lining, and hold them closely against the insole to produce a relatively smooth heel seat on the shoe.

' With the above and other objects and aspects in view the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe upper constructed in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective View of a counter formed in accordance with the invention;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the heel portion of a shoe embodying the upper and counter and showing these members located in overlasted position;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line IV-IV of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the shoe after the lasting operation has been completed, a portion of the upper being broken. away at the heel end of the shoe;

Fig. 6 is an elevational view partly in section of the heel end of the shoe with pressure being applied thereto; and

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 after an outsole has been attached.

In practising the method illustrated herein a shoe upper I0 is provided comprising a leather outer layer l2, a doubler I 4, and a lining IS, the forepart of the lining being composed of fabric material and the rear part or quarter lining being composed of thin, flexible leather indicated by the numeral I8. The lower marginal portion of the quarter lining i8 is serrated or pinked by a plurality of substantially V-shaped notches 26 between which are located V-shaped projections 2!, as shown in Fig. 1. The outer layer l2 of the upper has secured to the lower edge of its heel portion by stitches 22 a folded strip or tape of fabric material 24 which extends around said heel portion to points located somewhat forwardly of the heel breast line of the shoe. The folded portion of the fabric strip 24 projects be yond the edge of the outer layer l2 and has embraced in its'fold a string or cord 26, the opposite end portions of which extend beyond the strip.

In addition to the upper I 0, prepared as described, there is also provided a counter 28 (Fig. 2) which may be composed of any usual material such, for example, as fiber, and which at its bottom edge has the usual inwardly projecting flange 30 arranged to'overlap' the margin of the lining of the upper at the heel portion of the shoe. In accordance with the present invention, the flange 30 is serrated or pinked by a plurality of V-shaped notches 32 corresponding in size and shape to the notches 20 in the quarter lining l8 but being located in staggered relation to said notches, the notches 32 likewise having a plurality of V-shaped projections- 33 located between them which are staggered with respect to the projections 2| on the lining. Accordingly, when the counter 28 is assembled with the upper and an insole on a last, the projections 33 on-the counter will overlie the notches 20 in the lining and will thus come direct-- ly into contact with the insole. Moreover, the inner portions of the staggered projections 2| and 33 on the lining and counter produce smaller V- shaped notches or openings onthe shoe bottom, as shown in Figs. 3 and 5, through which the margin of the outer layer or ply I2 of the upper can come directly into contact with the surface of the marginal portion of the insole.

The upper l0 and the counter 28 are assembled on a last 34 in the usual manner with an insole 36. The insole 35 is preferably of the type illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 849,245 granted April 2, 1907, on an application filed in the name of Albert E. Johnson, this insole being commonly referred to as an Economy insole. As shown in Fig. 5, the insole is provided with a lasting rib 38 which extends around its marginal portion and terminates at the heel breast line of the shoe. The outer surface of the insole, forwardly of the heel breast line, is reinforced with a layer of fabric material 40 which also covers the inner side of the rib '38.

The upper I0 is now side-lasted in the customary manner by working the upper materials over the margin of the insole and securing them by staples 42 or other suitable means to the rib 38 to hold the upper in overlasted position. The toe portion of the upper may be lasted in any usual manner and secured in lasted position. As herein illustrated, the toe portion is lasted on the wellknown bed lasting machine and is secured against the rib by a binding wire 64 which is secured at opposite sides of the shoe by anchor tacks 46, as

shown in Fig. 5.

The next operation in practising the present method is to last the heel seat portion of the shoe.

This is accomplished, as herein illustrated, by first applying a coating of cement ll (Figs. 3 to 5, in-

clusive) to the margin of the heel portion of the insole 36 and working the upper materials, including the flange of the counter 28, over the edge of the insole preferably with the aid of the bed lasting machine referred to, this machine being provided with wipers 48 (Figs. 3 and 4) arranged not only to wipe the lasting margins of the upper materials over the insole but to maintain them in overlasted position under pressure until the materials have been secured in some manner to .the insole. It will be seen from the drawings that when the upper materials at the heel portion of the shoe are wiped inwardly over the cemented portion of the insole, the serrations or notches on the lining and counter remain open or at substantially their original width. Accordingly, the various layers or plies of the upper materials, including the outer layer 12, will all be brought directly into contact with the cement on the insole by reason of the staggered arrangement of the notches and projections on the lining and the counter. All three layers of the upper materials, therefore, at the heel seat portion of the shoe will be cement attached directly to the insole 36.

After the upper materials at the heel seat portion of the shoe have been lasted as described above, the wipers 46 are permitted to remain for a short period in their inwiped or operative position, as shown in Figs. 3 and l, and the opposite end portions of the string or cord 28 are tied firmly together in the manner shown in Fig. 5 to hold the upper materials in their overlasted position without the aid of metallic fastenings, such as tacks or staples, while the cement on the insole against the shoe.

or plate 50 (Fig. 6) which may be forced against the shoe bottom in any usual or convenient manner as, for example, by an ordinary (J-clamp 5| provided with a screw 53 for pressing the plate Pressure of the'member 50 is maintained while all layers of the upper materials are pressed closely against the surface of the insole to produce a relatively smooth heel seat on the shoe bottom. After the lasting operation has been completed, thestring 26 may be left in the shoe or removed, as desired, although it is preferable to leave it in since anattempt to remove it might weaken the cement bond between the upper materials and the insole. It will be seen from Figs.-6 and 'I that very little filler material will beneeded at the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom to fill in the space between the inner edges of the ov'erlasted attached forwardly of the heel breast line by in- V seam stitches which pass below the staples 42, the

the cement is setting so that binding wire 44 being removed prior to the inseaming operation. The shoe bottom forwardly of the heel breast line may now be trimmed to remove the excess material and to prepare the shoe for receiving an outsole. Theoverlasted portion of the upper at the heel seat portion of the shoe bottom is next roughened for'receiving portion. Fig. 7 shows the shoe with an outsole L 54 cement attached to its heel seat portion.

If it is desired to complete the construction of the heel seat portion of the shoe without the use of metallic fastenings such as tacks, staples 'or nails, the further operations of attaching a heel; comprising a usual heel base and top lift, may be carried out in the manner disclosed in a copending application Serial No. 188,102, filed February 1, 1938; in the name of Leroy W. Rollins, in which these members are attached to the heel seat portion of the outsole by cement and non-metallic Irrespective of the cement and cement, such for example aspyrox- 7 fastenings such, for example, as fiber fastenings which do not penetrate the insole. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is 'not limited to the method disclosed in the application referred to for completing the heel portion of the shoe since the heel members may, if desired, be

attached by nails or other metallic fastenings.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by LettersPatcry; of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole, an upper and a counter, the lining of the upper and the flange of thecounter being serrated.

by notches arranged in staggered relation to each other,applying cement to'the margin of the outer surface of the insole, working the upper materials into overlasted relation to the insole, thereby causing the cement on the insole to reach the counter and the outer layer of the upper by reason of the notches in the lining and the flange of the counter, and maintaining the upper materials in overlasted position until the cement has set to hold them permanently in such position.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises, assembling on a last an insole,an upper and a counter, the insole having cement on the marginof its heel portion and the flange of the counter andthe lining of the upper being pinked by notches arranged in staggered to the insole and relation to each other, working the upper materials at said heel portion into overlasted relation thereby causing the cement to reach all the layers of the upper materials by reason of the staggered notches in the lining and the counter, and maintaining the overlasted upper;materials firmly against the insole while the cement is setting to produce a smooth heel seat on the shoe bottom.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole having a smooth heel seat portion, a two-ply upper having its lining pinked by notches at the margin of its heel portion, and a counter the flange of which is pinked by notches that are staggered with respect to the notches in said lining, applying cement to the margin of the heel portion of the insole, Working the upper materials at said portion into overlasted position against the insole and thereby causing the cement there- I on to reach both plies of the upper by reason of ,sho'e a heel seat ings.

the aforesaid notches in the lining and counter, and pressing the overlasted upper materials flat against the heel seat portion of the insole until the cement has set, thereby producing on the portion which is relatively smooth and which contains no metallic fasten- 4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole, an upper and a counter, the lining of the insole, working the upper materials and counter upper at its heel portion and the flange of the counter being serrated by V-shaped notches arrangedin staggered relation to each other, applying cement to the heel portion of the insole, working the upper materials including the counter over said heel portion and securing them in overlasted relation to the insole, thereby permitting the cement on the insole to reach the plies of the upper materials and the counter by reason of the aforesaid notches to cause said plies and counter to adhere directly to the insole, and pressing the overlasted portions of the upper materials and counter flat against the insole to produce a relatively smooth heel seat on the shoe bottom.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole, a counter, and an upper including a lining, the heel portion of the margin of said lining and the flange. of said counter being serrated by notches which are staggered with respect to each other, applying cement to the heel portion of the over the edge of the insole and into overlasted position relatively thereto, thereby causing the cement on the insole to engage the lining, counter and upper by reason of the notches on the lining and counter, and securing the upper materials in said overlasted position by a string attached to the lower edge of the upper.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole, a counter, and an'upper including a lining,

overlasted position by the heel portion of the margin of said lining and the flange of said counter being serrated by notches which are staggered with respect to each other, applying cement to the heel portion of the insole, working the upper materials and counter over the edge of the insole and into overlasted position relatively thereto, thereby causing the cement on the insole to engage the lining, counter and upper by reason of the notches on the lining and counter, securing the upper materials in said a string attached to the lower edge of the upper, and pressing the upper materials flat against the surface of the insole While the cement is setting to produce a smooth bottom on the heel seat portion of the shoe.

'7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last an insole, a counter and an upper including a lining, said insole having a lasting rib forwardly of the heel breast line of the shoe, and said counter and the heel portion of said lining being serrated by notches arranged in staggered relation to each other, working the opposite sides of the upper materials into overlasted relation to the insole and securing them end of the upper into overlasted position against said rib and securing it in such position, applying cement to the margin of the heel seat portion of the insole, working the heel portion of the upper into overlasted relation to said heel seat portion and securing the upper in such position by a string passing around the heel portion of the upper, thereby causing the cement on the insole to engage the lining, counter and upper by reason of the aforesaid notches, and applying pressure to the heel portion of the shoe while the cement is setting to cause the upper materials to lie relatively flat and thereby to produce a smooth heel seat having no metallic fastenings therein.

8. In a shoe, an insole, a flanged counter and an upper including a lining, the lining and the flange of the counter being pinked by notches arranged in staggered relation to each other, and cement securing the lining, counter and upper directly to the insole, said cement engaging all of said members by reason of the aforesaid notches.

9. In a shoe, an insole, a flanged counter and an upper comprising an outer layer and a lining, the counter flange and the heel portion of the lining being serrated by V-shaped notches staggered with respect to each other, cement on the heel portion of the insole seeming the lining, counter and outer layer permanently to the insole, said cement engaging all of said members by reason of said notches and thereby producing a relatively smooth heel seat portion on the shoe, and an outsole attached to said heel seat portion.

10. In a shoe, an insole, a flanged counter and an upper including a lining and a leather outer layer, the flange of said counter and the heel portion of said lining having a plurality of notches therein arranged in staggered relation to each other, the material of the counter flange between the notches in the lining directly engagto said rib, working the toe 

